A A Gill, an English food journalist (I think?), visits Stockholm. It’s a very funny article, also quite scathing, which is perhaps one of the reasons why it’s so funny. (Its title says it all: ‘The stuff was vile, thoughtless, spiced and seasoned by a careless troll’.) I thought you’d enjoy this passage in particular; it’s about Mistral, a rather famous restaurant committed to biodynamics.

Mistral is a southern wind that’s supposed to drive you mad. Mistral the restaurant does. […] Our table was decorated with the sort of things that solitary children who worry their parents pick up; old corks, bits of rotten pumpkin, bones and shells. It could have been evidence for a Nordic murder mystery. The food, the cook-waiter told us, was bio-dynamic, and a surprise. Bio-dynamism is, he said, the spirituality of food. More like a religion than catering. The ingredients were grown by a very old man who delivered them in a very, very old van. I suspect he also guards a secret well, speaks in rhymes and spins straw into gold. […] As dinner, it was pretty disastrous, as comic theatre of the absurd, it was a triumph.


7 thoughts on “biodynamism

  1. Interestingly published today in the Guardian

    ‘When I return later for dinner, this signals a series of harmonious combinations. “Various sweet pages of unsweetened pumpkin” is a hymn of praise to a prosaic squash. “Crisp and creamy potatoes with pine-milk emulsion and raw mushrooms” is simple to look at, a joy to eat, jacket potatoes to dream of.

    Behind the ninja topknots sported by the chefs is an assertive, expressive cooking style built around relationships with mostly biodynamic producers and principles.’

  2. the lunch we ate in the biodynamic restaurant was very nice, wasn’t it?

    I think of the two critics I’d prefer to have dinner with AA Gill. I’m still laughing.

  3. Rosendal — yes! Very nice. More of a café than a restaurant, but reading this review, Rosendal is a better choice… if you want to cure hunger. Apparently Rosendal delivers vegetables to Mistral. To ruin, if we listen to Gill, haha!

    Looking at Mistral’s website, it seemed as though they also collaborate with the BD people in Järna.

  4. The second critic writes:

    “We don’t try to ‘push’ the produce here, we try and listen to it, to see what it can be,” chef Victor Fransson smiles gently as I watch him prepare Mistral’s food for the OFM shoot.”

    They probably DO listen to it though. That’s a bit of a worry.

  5. The overcooked carrot in Gill’s piece: ‘PLEASE! Let me out of here!’

    Sadly, they didn’t hear it.

    It’s spiritual listening. But the vegetables are more used to speaking with the elementals than with humans.

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